Where Does the Land End?

May 14, 2023

In south Florida where I grew up, the land and sea merge into the interwoven mangroves. There is no discernable end to the Florida peninsula. Baja is quite the opposite. A rocky coastline defines the southern tip of the Baja peninsula.

Land’s End is where the Gulf of California and the Pacific Ocean meet at Baja’s most southerly point. It’s the second-longest peninsula in the world (about 775 miles from top to tip). An iconic arch (El Arco) highlights Land’s End and its emblematic image is featured on scores of book covers, magazines, postcards, and Baja guidebooks.

El Arco is easily accessible via a half-hour boat ride from the wharf in Cabo San Lucas on the calm Gulf of California. Valentín negotiates our fare with the glass-bottom boat driver. My watercolor sketch of the wharf features our panga named Jessica.

We’re on our way to El Arco. Behind Valentín is the beach at Lovers’ Cove. (We didn’t have cell phones for shooting “selfies” at the time of this trip.)

Panga drivers patiently wait for tourists who are enjoying the beach at Lovers’ Cove.

We’re circling back from the rough waters of the Pacific and the view of El Arco is the mirror image.

My watercolor sketch of El Arco is from the more turbulent Pacific side. According to folklore, the cave was a hideout for English and Dutch privateers (like Sir Francis Drake), who looted Spanish galleons, laden with treasures. It’s aptly known as Pirate’s Cave.