3-14-2023
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Valentín introduced me to indigenous leaders from Pa Ipai, Kiliwa, Kumiai, and Cucapá tribes in Baja. They gathered several times a year for ceremonies and artisan fairs. Pa Ipai Elder, Josefina Ochurte, opened this gathering of the elders with ceremonial smudging. She fanned participants with smoke from sage sticks using a large feather.
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At another tribal gathering, Valentín introduced me to Leonor Farlow, a Kiliwa elder, recognized for her work in preserving the Kiliwa language. She is one of the last three native speakers of the language and is holding a Kiliwa/Spanish dictionary she created in collaboration with a linguistic anthropologist.
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I later painted a watercolor of the photo of Leonor with Pa I’pai friend Tirsa Flores, who is selling her pottery to visitors.
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I purchased this Kiliwa grandmother doll handcrafted and signed by Leonor. One of her daughters created the scene below.
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This doll tableau depicts a way of life that disappeared after the Spanish missionaries arrived. Acorns were the basis of the indigenous diet. They were leeched for days in baskets and pounded with a grinding stone on a flat piece of granite. The resulting meal served for making mush, bread, pudding, and other staples. Sage was bundled for smudging during ceremonies.
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Rosa Maria (Naty) Silva, from San José de la Zorra (Kumiai), leads a basket making class.
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Aydee “Nini” Carreon, from San Antonio Necua (Kumiai), creates her baskets with pine needles and reeds. Her materials and tools are shown.
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We visited Margarita Castro in her home in Santa Catarina (Pa Ipai community) and were invited to watch while she formed a pot. Later I painted a watercolor of this scene. Notice that she holds a flat rock on the inside of the pot while she beats the clay with a wooden paddle on the outside. A final piece is shown at her knees.
This was very interesting, exciting, and most of all… real. I also enjoyed the romance story. Thank you for sharing. Trudy Campbell
I love that you called it “real.” I felt so honored to have met down to earth people who have kept up their artisan traditions for hundreds of years.
Hugs, Niyazi