Baja Wildflowers, etc…

May, 2024 – Sue Niazi McDevitt

When spring arrived in Baja, I roamed the coastal scrublands around my home in Bajamar to see how many different wildflowers I could find. If it had been a particularly wet winter, there would be surprises in abundance.

I would bring home a stem of each one and render their blossoms in watercolors.

Baja California nightshades (above left) grew in clumps close to the ground and were usually a rare find. The flowers varied from light lavender to deep purple.

The San Diego sunflowers (above right) were more prolific and grew waist high. Their sunny faces gave me a lift on the gray sky days of May next to the Pacific Ocean (known as “May gray”).

California deerweed (above left) had broomlike branches and its soft brown and yellow flowers made it a weed that anyone could love.

Buckwheat (above right) was a common bush and the cotton ball like flowers dried to brittle brown tufts in the summer.

There were several different mallow bushes (above left) in coastal Baja – I viewed some growing along the sides of highways. Flowers varied from white to pink to apricot.

Agaves (above right) grew in profusion in my surroundings, even hanging from cliffs. When the central stalk bloomed and dried out, the entire plant would eventually die and be replaced by sprouts growing at the base. They are sometimes called Century Plants because it takes such a long time for them to bloom.

Orange nasturtium vines (above left) rambled over other lower growing plants and rocks and sometimes covered pathways all winter long – the more rain, the bigger they grew and the more they rambled. The heat of summer dried them out and they completely disappeared until the following winter.

I was smitten by the simple beauty of the San Diego sunflowers (above right) and other members of the daisy family and painted them in a variety of settings.

I planted sunflower seeds in my garden in Baja every year. This one was a giant variety that grabbed my attention at a winery in the Guadalupe Valley. I pulled a chair up close to the plant and tried to capture in watercolor how the rays of the sun hitting the petals and casting shadows on the leaves. I’m still a nut for sunflowers.

Wild datura plants were domesticated into upright bush shapes and commonly called trumpet flowers.Wild datura plants were domesticated into upright bush shapes and commonly called trumpet flowers.

Before I moved to Baja, I had only seen plump red pomegranate fruits at the store. When I found a pomegranate tree, bearing these flowers in different stages of development, I was awed.

I loved the profusion of hibiscus I grew up with in tropical south Florida and was amazed to see how well they adapted to coastal Baja.

I have been entranced with wildflowers and garden flowers my entire life. They continue to be my favorite subject for painting.

7 Escapades near and in Tulum

Riviera Maya 2013

1 – Playa del Carmen – Beach at Playacar and

2 – Playacar Ruins

It was the coldest winter that I’d experienced in Baja. The dream of warmth in the Yucatán Peninsula drew me to the Riviera Maya in January 2013. After flying into Cancun, my first stop was Playa del Carmen to visit a friend with a comfy room just for me.

It was there that I started a watercolor sketchbook and travelogue.

A jungle path took me to the ancient Playacar Mayan ruins and then on to a Caribbean beach with clear turquoise water and soft sand.

A strangler fig tree led me down the path to the beach and the various tourist-oriented beach lounges with food and beverage service.

The warmth and beauty of the clear Caribbean put a smile on my face.

3 – Xaman-ha Aviary in Playa del Carmen

The Xaman-ha Aviary was within walking distance and I was met at the entrance by a roseate spoonbill and a Caribbean iguana. I entered a magical world of tropical birds and lush vegetation.

The plentiful flamingos honked like crazy and sometimes marched in unison.

4 – Next stop Tulum and Zamas Hotel

I took a colectivo (shuttle van) from Playa del Carmen into the town of Tulum. Then a taxi delivered me to Xamas on hotel row. It was an eco-hotel located on a Caribbean beach with a more turbulent, milky turquoise sea.

Xamas was called an eco-hotel because they depended on the stiff breezes off the Caribbean and intense sunshine for wind and solar power. The room was round with abundant sunlight and air and was constructed of local materials. I felt nested in nature.

The beach was great for lounging and painting in my watercolor sketchbook. I enjoyed watching the local brown pelicans divebomb into the sea for their food.Palapas (shelters with a roof of thatched palm fronds) were a ubiquitous construction method in the Caribbean.

The beach was great for lounging and painting in my watercolor sketchbook. I enjoyed watching the local brown pelicans divebomb into the sea for their food.Palapas (shelters with a roof of thatched palm fronds) were a ubiquitous construction method in the Caribbean.

5 – The Mayan Ruins of Tulum

The iconic Mayan ruins of Tulum were within walking distance but it was way too hot for that, so I took a taxi.

Well-kept pathways led to the various temples. It was once an important trading hub, exporting jade and obsidian. Because this settlement was built on seaside cliffs, it was easily defensible.The views of the Caribbean were stunning.

In addition to the well-preserved ruins, I enjoyed the birds and flowers I saw there. The fat Yucatán blue jay was perched on a branch at my eye level and its blue feathers were radiant. The great grackles were ever-present and noisy.

6 – The Ruins of Cobá

I took a taxi inland for an hour to reach the highly recommended ruins of Cobá

The Temple of the Mayans and the ball court were outstanding.

I took a pedi-cab because the heat was so oppressive. My guide was a good-humored young man who filled me in on the ancient ways of the Mayans.

These upright stone stelae at Cobá usually depicted rulers and their history.

7 – Cenotes near Tulum

The Gran Cenote, on the outskirts of Tulum, is one of many marvelous underground sinkholes where the collapse of limestone has exposed groundwater.

Cenote Dos Ojos is in a vast jungle park with many cenotes interconnected by underground rivers. It’s about a half an hour from Tulum. Swimming was quietly delicious below ground where the temperature was 20 degrees cooler than the surface of the jungle.

Love Affair with the Riviera Maya

Bacalar, Quintana Roo, Mexico in 2011

Art Rendezvous at Casita Carolina in Bacalar

Sunrise at Casita Carolina next to the Lake of Seven Colors, Bacalar

I enjoyed doing quick sketches every day over the seven days of the art rendezvous. We visited a different painting location each day. Among the venues were – the Mayan ruins of Dzibanche, friends’ gardens, Cenote Azul, the Old Fortand scenes in town. We mounted a “clothesline art show” on the last day and sold our pieces to neighbors, friends and art supporters.

Boy selling veggies and flowers in town

A tropical plant vendor in town

Tropical tree at the Mayan Dzibanche Ruins

Our “clothesline art show” was open to the public on the last day of the art rendezvous.

I was inspired to paint more watercolors at home and mounted a show in Ensenada, Baja California in June 2011

The show took place at the Pérez Meillón Gallery at the invitation of owner, Adalberto Pérez Meillón (far right). We named the exposition: “Love Affair with the Riviera Maya”. On opening night, the response was outstanding. My watercolors were so enticing that guests wanted to know how they could visit such a lush and colorful location in Mexico. Several finished watercolors are shown below.

The Lake of Seven Colors at Casita Carolina

Sunrise at Cenote Azul

Mural on Wall of Laundry “Lolita” in Bacalar

Hummingbird and white trumpet flowers

Whale Watching from a “panga” in Baja

Ojo de Liebre (near the town of Guerrero Negro) is a vast lagoon protected from ocean predators. It is a safe place for mothers to give birth and couples to mate. It’s about 500 miles south of the Baja border with California. From January through March each year, gray whales arrive from the Bering Straits in Alaska. Mothers and babies will approach the relatively small “pangas” like the one in this photo. They are curious creatures who sometimes seek out human contact. They seem to be as fascinated by us as we are by them.

This mural marks the turn off from the town of Guerrero Negro to the whale watching dock. The lagoon is part of a biosphere where human contact happens when it is initiated by the whales and it is carefully regulated. My first visit to see the whales was in 2007, a year after moving to Baja. And I got to pet one!

Two gray whales come close to our “panga”.

A curious whale surfaces to take a look around. This is called spy hopping.

Some of the more playful whales appear to love being touched by humans. Others will get under the “panga” and gently rock the boat, apparently, just for the fun of it.

When the whale makes a deep dive and flaps its tail, it’s called fluking. Another behavior that can be seen from a safe distance is breaching. This is when the whale forces its massive body upwards partially out of the water, turns around and slaps down. This creates impressive splashing that can be seen for miles.

I had fun doing quick sketches of whale behaviors I observed and the massive skeleton outside the whale center (shown below).

If you live near the ocean in San Diego or Baja, this is the time of the year you may start seeing the whales moving south, hugging the coastline as they release air and ocean water through their blowholes. They usually travel in pods and tend to surface briefly for air, dive, and disappear for several minutes before resurfacing a few miles down the coast. 

I’ve had the thrill of observing an energetic young whale breach five times in front of me while I was standing at a whale watching pavilion in Bajamar. To say it was spectacular is an understatement.

How I was Adopted into a Family of Potters (Part Two)

The Pottery Making Process

Can you imagine creating a highly artistic piece of pottery without ever going to the store for supplies or using a kiln to fire it? Can you imagine using your own hands and materials from the earth to create this pottery?

​The many pottery making families in the small town of Mata Ortiz, Chihuahua, take pride in using clay that they dig from nearby deposits and grinding local minerals to make their paints.

Preparing the clay at the home of Rosy ​     Sample mineral

Mora and Adán Villalobos

Rosy kneaded the clay to eliminate air pockets and showed me how to hand build, using one of the gesso bowls as a base.

First, we formed “tortillas” and pressed them into the base, then added a “cigar” to build up the sides and created a circular opening.

My pot was ready for the next step of smoothing surface with a used hacksaw blade. Rosy worked on the Christmas ornament (upper right).

The next step was sanding the dried pot (either left on a windowsill on a warm day or at a low temperature in the oven to dry). The opening was sanded to an even circle. The sanded piece was then burnished with a rounded rock or the back of a spoon until it had a polished look (upper right).

Rosy’s daughter, Nancy, sanded a pot that she later burnished and painted herself.

Nancy painted tiny flowers on her pot. Brushes were made by tying children’s hair to a stick. Traditional colors were black and terra cotta and paints were made from ground minerals and oil.

Rosy painting a traditional pattern.

Here the family was involved in the process of pottery making in the shade of a front yard tree.

When several mini pots (or a larger pot) were ready for firing, they were placed in a galvanized bin and elevated on wire coils. Firing was done in a backyard free of vegetation.

After the coals were removed from around the bin, a bent piece of rebar was used to extract the pots from the bin so that they could cool off.

A display of finished pottery by one of Rosy’s sisters

Rosy’s son, Osvaldo, taught me the “sgraffito” technique (from the Italian Renaissance). I painted my pot black, polished it and scratched back into the surface of the pot to create designs of nature near my home in Bajamar. Osvaldo’s designs were taken from nature near Mata Ortiz.

When Adán started showing us the surroundings of Mata Ortiz in his old Ford Bronco, I had no idea that I would become such a welcome guest of the family, nor that Rosy and her mom would teach me to hand build my own pottery piece. 

I am still in touch with Rosy via Facebook and all the children have grown up in the 14 years since this photo was taken by my traveling companion, Valentín, who passed away in 2019. I continue to treasure my friendship with Rosy, Adán, Nancy, Osvaldo and Eva.

How I was Adopted into a Family of Potters (Part One)

The Mata Ortiz, Chihuahua, family of potters who adopted me when I visited the famous pottery village in 2009 and 2011 with Valentín. (Rosy Mora and Adán Villalobos and children – all grown now).  

How it all Started

What led me on my first expedition to the famed pottery village ofMata Ortiz, Chihuahua, in 2009? As promised, here is another adventurewith Valentín (my Mexican companion).

As you may remember, Valentín was a salesman for Adalberto Pérez Meillón at the Pérez Meillón Gallery. Featured in the gallery were magnificent hand-built ceramics from Mata Ortiz, Chihuahua. Just out of college, Adalberto taught in an elementary school near Mata Ortiz and eventually became a shop owner in Ensenada and the exclusive representative of Mata Ortiz pottery in Baja California.

The more information they shared about the Mata Ortiz potters and their acclaim throughout Mexico and the Southwestern United States, the more I wanted to meet the potters first-hand in their own hometown. Adalberto made frequent purchasing trips to Mata Ortiz and he and a friend had built a modest adobe home in the El Porvenir neighborhood. He kindly made his vacation home available to Valentín and me for a visit.

Adalberto’s home under a mountain peak called “El Indio” 

The Amethyst Colored Wall

It didn’t take me long after arriving at Adalberto’s vacation home to meet some of the potters.  I ventured out for an early morning walk in the neighborhood the day after we arrived. Young people emerged from their home studios with pots in their hands asking me if I’d like to see more.

When a particularly persistent grandmother invited me into her home, I couldn’t resist. Even though I was carrying no money, this did not deter her from treating me with great kindness. Antonia displayed pottery crafted by many different members of her family.

I told her I was interested in the miniature pots she showed me. She said were hand made by her daughter Rosy and we left each other as new friends.  Her adobe fence was washed with a lovely shade of amethyst, which was a sign to me that I would surely return – amethyst being my favorite color.  

I got back from my walk and Valentín had breakfast waiting for me. Then there was a knock on the front door.  It was Rosy Mora with a handwoven basket full of miniature pots to show me. (Rosy’s mother, Antonia, had phoned her and she drove over immediately.)

Rosy and her miniatures

I was so smitten with the mini pots that I bought every single one of them – the whole basketful. Rosy had arrived in the family Ford Bronco and Valentín saw an opportunity to arrange transportation for us for our 10-day stay. (We had arrived by bus and taxi and were housed on the outskirts of Mata Ortiz.)

Rosy drove back home and returned with her husband Adán who agreed to drive us anywhere we wanted to go during our stay. We were immediately incorporated into their family of five and met many extended family members who were also potters.

Rosy (maroon shirt), Adám (in back), Antonia (red shirt) and extended family members welcomed us as if we were long-lost cousins.

Our days were spent sharing meals with Rosy and family, visiting local sites and museums, and driving to mountain overlooks. Rosy and her mom offered to teach me how to make a pot with my own hands using the Mata Ortiz technique developed by master potter Juan Quezada (a former neighbor of Rosy and Adán’s).

​I was skeptical about my ability to hand-build a nice-looking pot. Working in three dimensions has never been my forte. However, Rosy and her mother encouraged me to try. Below is a spoiler for Part Two where I’ll cover the steps of crafting Mata Ortiz pottery and firing without a kiln.

The final version of my 4” mini pot that was completed in Rosy’s kitchen studio.

How I was adopted into a Family of Potters (Part Two) is coming next month

Where to Find Cool, Clear Water in Baja

August 17, 2023

How in the world could anyone imagine that there might be an oasis in the desert within this hot, dry Baja landscape? How about jumping into a pick-up with Mexican neighbors and a bunch of kids and heading down a rutted dirt road east of Ensenada in 2007 to find out?

Just trust your neighbor to get you to Agua Caliente (Hot Water). Heh, I’ve been here before! Back in the early 70’s. It looks just the same 30 + years later – just a little more worn. 

And here it is! The cool, clear water! What a find! The pool on the far right is for lazing in the naturally healing sulfur hot springs. Next to that is the pool for cooling off on a hot summer day.

The bath houses have been upgraded a bit and each contains a tub of hot spring water.

The chapel on the hill is still standing and was recently painted inside. The Virgin of Guadalupe takes center stage as the patron saint of Mexico.

None of the grills were functional but with a little Mexican ingenuity, one was cobbled together. 

Chicken tacos never tasted better.

Yummy!

Tree climbing is fun!

Here’s wishing you cool, clear water and plenty of shade this summer.

How to Make the Most of a Sketchy Situation (In Mexico)

This month I’m digressing from my usual emphasis on living in Baja between 2006 and 2020. I was going to entitle this blog “5 Reasons to Check your Flight Status Before Leaving Home” but I didn’t think of that prior to arriving at Tijuana Airport a few days ago.

After all, I was packed for an 11-day trip, hyped up for my first plane trip in four years, and single-mindedly intent on visiting my hermanita Liz in her hometown of Orizaba, Veracruz. I believed I had a flawless plan until I was told at the Volaris Airline counter that my flight had been cancelled. I felt like the bottom had fallen out of all my careful planning.

Popocatépetl, the massive volcano that sits midway between Mexico City and Puebla, was erupting and spewing ash over the airports which had closed because of the danger that volcanic ash poses to jet engines.

Popocatépetl Volcano erupting, May 23, 2023

What to do? My mind was perplexed but my heart said, “Keep going toward Mexico”. I believed that moving forward with my trip would be easier than returning home. I searched my geographically challenged brain for an airport that could be a jumping off point to Orizaba. Oaxaca was a possibility. I was there fifty years ago and loved it. I was soon in the air for an easy the 3 ½ – hour flight. So far, so good.

When I chose an airport shuttle van to transport me to the Oaxaca Inn Express across from the bus station, things went sideways fast – a baggage mix up, return to the airport to sort it out, another shuttle to the hotel where luggage was exchanged, check-in at a dive of a hotel, attempted inquiry about bus schedules at the station with hundreds of riders in line and no information booth, a sleepless night in an airless room…

The next day was even worse with a teachers’ strike blocking major thoroughfares, the bus station, and airport. Sadly, I shared with Liz that I wouldn’t be able to make it to Orizaba to see her.

Meanwhile, I decided to treat myself to a short sojourn at a boutique hotel and things started turning around. My taxi driver from the previous night was able to locate me and take me to the Fiesta Inn. There I luxuriated next to the pool and got a good night’s sleep in AC and a comfy bed.

The next day, I made the most of a frustrating and disappointing situation and enjoyed two delightful site-seeing days in the outskirts of Oaxaca thanks to my kind-hearted taxi driver. Here are some visual highlights:

May 24, 2023

The Zapotecan Ruins of Mitla

Cactus Handrail at Mitla Ruins

Zapotecan wool rug weaver, Dalila, in her home workshop

Carding to smooth the wool and spinning the threads

Wool is dyed with all-natural substances like walnuts, pomegranate, and indigo.

El Tule, a magnificent Montezuma cypress tree

Over 2,000 years old, this tree is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has the largest trunk of any tree in the world by volume with a diameter of 46 feet. It is 137 feet high.

May 25, 2023, my 79th Birthday

The day started under a gorgeous Royal Poinciana tree

Moto taxis are a popular form of transportation in outlying villages. The driver was a friend of my taxi guy and stopped for the photo.

At the David Hernández workshop, Juan explained the process of carving and painting Zapotecan totem animals called Alebrijes

The Zapotecan calendar. My spirit animal is the owl and my protector is the dog.

Santo Tomás Jalieza is home of women back loom weavers

Cotton table runners

Time for a lunch celebration at Azucena Zapoteca restaurant

A hot, sunny day in lush surroundings

A birthday tradition in the Oaxaca outback celebrated with taxi driver, Ricardo

 Last stop – Doña Rosa Pottery (Oaxacan black pottery showcase)

My motto: “Just say ‘yes’ and keep moving forward.”

Sue Niyazi McDevitt

6-14-23

Where Does the Land End?

May 14, 2023

In south Florida where I grew up, the land and sea merge into the interwoven mangroves. There is no discernable end to the Florida peninsula. Baja is quite the opposite. A rocky coastline defines the southern tip of the Baja peninsula.

Land’s End is where the Gulf of California and the Pacific Ocean meet at Baja’s most southerly point. It’s the second-longest peninsula in the world (about 775 miles from top to tip). An iconic arch (El Arco) highlights Land’s End and its emblematic image is featured on scores of book covers, magazines, postcards, and Baja guidebooks.

El Arco is easily accessible via a half-hour boat ride from the wharf in Cabo San Lucas on the calm Gulf of California. Valentín negotiates our fare with the glass-bottom boat driver. My watercolor sketch of the wharf features our panga named Jessica.

We’re on our way to El Arco. Behind Valentín is the beach at Lovers’ Cove. (We didn’t have cell phones for shooting “selfies” at the time of this trip.)

Panga drivers patiently wait for tourists who are enjoying the beach at Lovers’ Cove.

We’re circling back from the rough waters of the Pacific and the view of El Arco is the mirror image.

My watercolor sketch of El Arco is from the more turbulent Pacific side. According to folklore, the cave was a hideout for English and Dutch privateers (like Sir Francis Drake), who looted Spanish galleons, laden with treasures. It’s aptly known as Pirate’s Cave.

Passion in Watercolor

4-11-23

I moved to Baja in 2006 to pursue my creative passions and become the artist I was always meant to be. I drove to nearby landmarks that attracted my attention, took photos, and painted at home.

The Cantamar Lighthouse south of Rosarito is an iconic landmark which is falling into ruin for lack of maintenance.

The oceanfront provided points of interest like this keyhole rock wall with its view of the breakers next to the Halfway House Restaurant. (It is the halfway point between Tijuana and Ensenada on the northern coast of Baja.)

A palm laden estuary lies just north of the Cantamar Lighthouse and is home to waterfowl and coastal wetland vegetation.

This faux pyramid structure next to the Pacific was built to attract buyers for homes in a residential development called Plaza del Mar. It is located north of the famous La Fonda Restaurant and south of Rosarito Beach.

This chapel stands on a hillside facing the ocean at Kilometer 18 on the Tijuana – Ensenada toll road.  Sadly, it’s been abandoned for years and has deteriorated significantly.

I was stuck in a traffic jam on the International Highway between Tijuana and Playas de Tijuana and looked up to see this clothesline. The clothing wafting in the foggy breeze attracted my attention and I snapped a reference photo.

El Trailero is a well-known taco shop in El Sauzal at the entrance of Ensenada. I frequently stopped there for delicious tacos and fruit drinks after shopping at the El Sauzal Frutería produce market next door.

My friend, Andre Satie, a pastel artist, painted this tableau of a family picnicking under a palapa next to the ocean, a ubiquitous scene on beaches in Baja.